This March, my husband and I visited Japan. After checking out of the Hilton Fukuoka Sea Hawks, we headed toward my parents‑in‑law’s home. Spring in Japan feels special to me not only because of cherry blossoms, but also because of tsukushi (つくし) — the fertile spring stems of the horsetail plant (Equisetum arvense). These slender brown shoots appear briefly along riverbanks and fields, and in Japan they are foraged as a seasonal wild vegetable (sansai).
When I was little, I loved picking tsukushi with my friends and siblings, and I often cooked them with my grandmother. It had been twelve years since I last experienced spring in Japan. On that visit, my mother picked a basketful of tsukushi the day I arrived home. She always knew the best places to find them — safe spots away from the roadside, where dogs might pass. Since she passed away last year, I found myself telling my husband, “I don’t know where to look for tsukushi anymore. I should have asked her.” This spring, I was determined to savor Japan again, with tsukushi picking and cherry blossoms at the top of my list. When my husband asked my mother‑in‑law, she admitted she had never eaten tsukushi before.
When we reached my parents‑in‑law’s home, my father‑in‑law told me he knew a place nearby where tsukushi grew. He has always loved nature and seasonal wild plants, though his health has declined in recent years. He walked slowly, looking smaller and weaker than before. Even though it was spring, the day was cold and windy, and I worried my parents‑in‑law might catch a chill. My husband and I took off our puffy vests and wrapped them around my parents‑in‑law. Then my father‑in‑law gently led us to the spot he had found, guiding us along the path at his own pace.
We finally reached the spot my father‑in‑law had mentioned, and there they were — countless tsukushi standing tall in the field. The sight instantly filled me with excitement. Together, we bent down and began picking them one by one, just as I used to do in my childhood.
My husband was truly glad that we could enjoy tsukushi picking for the first time together. He captured the moment in a photo of us, smiling with our hands full of spring’s delicate shoots. It felt like a small but meaningful way to connect with nature, family, and tradition all at once.
After returning to my parents‑in‑law’s home, we spread out the bunch of tsukushi we had picked. The first step was to remove the tiny papery leaves that cling to each stem. This is the most time‑consuming part of preparing tsukushi, and in many ways the hardest — not because it is difficult, but because it requires patience. Only after peeling away those sheaths can the stems be blanched or cooked.
As we sat together working through the pile, I felt the same rhythm I remembered from childhood, when my grandmother and I prepared tsukushi side by side. The slow process itself became part of the enjoyment, turning the simple act of cooking into a shared memory.
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| Leaves |
After about thirty minutes, we had carefully removed all the tiny leaves from the stems. In the past, I used to eat only the stems without the heads, since the heads carry a stronger bitterness that children often avoid. This time, however, I decided to leave the heads on. As an adult, I felt ready to appreciate the full flavor of tsukushi — including its earthy bitterness, which now seemed like part of the charm of spring.
Once the tsukushi were cleaned, my husband and I cooked them together, simmering the stems with eggs. When I tasted the dish, its aroma and flavor immediately carried me back to my childhood memories of spring. My parents‑in‑law also enjoyed it. My mother‑in‑law told us she had never known what tsukushi tasted like, and my husband’s niece and nephew were surprised to learn that tsukushi could be eaten at all. Sharing the dish with everyone made the experience even more special, as though we were all savoring the season together.
How to Cook Tsukushi Tamago‑toji
Ingredients (4 Servings)
A large handful (400–500 g) of Tsukushi (cleaned, leaves removed)
Instructions
1. Remove all papery leaves from the tsukushi, rinse several times, and boil for two minutes.
2. Drain well and squeeze out excess water, then cut into bite‑sized pieces.
3. In a pot, add dashi, sugar, mirin, and soy sauce. Bring to a gentle simmer.
4. Add the tsukushi and simmer for 15–20 minutes so the flavors soak in.
5. Pour in beaten eggs and let them set softly before turning off the heat.
6. Serve warm — the mild bitterness of tsukushi and the softness of the egg make a nostalgic spring dish.
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