Last year, my husband and I visited Yakushima Island, Japan. We chose to travel to this island because my American patient mentioned that he really enjoyed hiking there on his first trip to Japan and planned to try climbing Mt. Fuji next time. When he told me about Yakushima Island, I was very surprised because I used to think that it wasn’t a very popular travel destination in Japan, even though Yakushima is a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site and the inspiration for the Studio Ghibli film Princess Mononoke. Many international travelers love Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. Since my husband and I are avid hikers, I was very interested in hiking on Yakushima Island and learned that it was a very difficult hike, but we could enjoy trekking through ancient forests and vibrant moss-covered landscapes which we can’t experience in the arid regions of Southern California. Eventually, we decided to visit Yakushima Island for the first time. One of the hikes I wanted to try was the Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail. Yakushima Island is home to the Jomon Sugi, believed to be over 3,000 to 7,000 years old. There is no road access to Jomon Sugi; the only way to see it is to hike there. The round trip for the Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail usually takes 9 to 10 hours on foot. It is a strenuous hike, but I thought that it would be a great experience of a lifetime. Today, I'm going to share my experience hiking the Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail.
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| My Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail Walking Summary (UA MapMyWalk App) |
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| My Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail Walking Summary (AllTrails App) |
Tips for Walking to Jomon-Sugi from Arakawa Tozanguchi Trailhead
1. It's a strenuous hike: Be prepared for a challenging journey.
2. It's a long 18-mile hike: Ensure you're ready for the distance.
3. It's a 9 to 10-hour hike on average: Allocate sufficient time for the hike.
4. The trail might be wet and muddy: Wear appropriate footwear and gear.
5. Prepare for rain: Bring a raincoat, umbrella, waterproof backpack cover, and a hand towel. It's a good idea to bring some Ziplock bags to keep your belongings dry. (We rented raincoats for this hike from a local rental store in Anbo.)
6. Wear hiking or trekking shoes: Proper footwear is essential for comfort and safety.
7. Bring lunch and snacks: There are no trash cans, so bring plastic bags to keep your trash in your hiking backpack.
8. Bring bottles of water: If you're comfortable drinking natural mountain water, there are five spots along the trail where you can refill. (Personally, I didn't drink the natural water as I couldn't be sure it was 100% safe from H. pylori, so I brought plenty of water.)
9. Bring a disposable camping toilet set: There is a flush toilet at Arakawa Tozanguchi. Along the trail, you'll also find unflushable bio-toilets and some toilet tents. If you plan to use the toilet tents, you’ll need a disposable camping toilet set (note that you cannot discard it along the trail). I purchased my disposable camping toilet set at Daiso before flying to Yakushima. While there are no Daiso stores in Yakushima, you can find these sets at supermarkets, though they tend to be more expensive.
10. It might snow in December through February: Be prepared for cold weather and potential snow. (We hiked in early October)
We woke up early in the morning and drove a rental car to the Yakusugi Shizenkan (屋久杉自然館) bus stop. We arrived at 5 a.m. It was still dark, but many hikers were already waiting for the bus. Most of them were young people in their late teens to 30s, and about half of them appeared to be international travelers. We bought two round-trip bus tickets for 6000 yen and stood in line for the bus, which arrived at 5:30 a.m. Some hikers were eating bento or light snacks while they waited.
The huge bus navigated very narrow, curvy roads. I was impressed by how professional the bus driver was. It took us 30 minutes by bus to reach the trailhead, Arakawa Tozanguchi (荒川登山口).
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| The Trailhead, Arakawa Tozanguchi (荒川登山口) |
At the trailhead, there was a public bathroom. After a quick stop, we started walking along the trail at 6:15 a.m. It was still dusky in the early morning, but the morning air was crisp and refreshing, perfect for the long hike ahead.
Soon after we started walking, it began to get bright as the sun started to rise.
The first 5 miles (8 km) of the trail followed a narrow railway track, just wide enough for one person, so hikers walked in single file.
We crossed several bridges along the way, where many people stopped to take photos. The sound of the rushing river below was a soothing backdrop as we continued our hike.
After walking for an hour, we arrived at the site of Kosugidani Village (小杉谷集落). I was surprised to learn that a small village and school stood here until 1970, and that 540 people used to live here. The village developed as a base for the development of national forests on Yakushima Island from the Taisho to Showa era.
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| We purchased Bamboo Sheath bento on the previous night. |
Before the railway track trail ended, we decided to have lunch. We brought a Bamboo Sheath bento, which we had purchased at Kamogawa the previous night. It included rice balls, Japanese omelette, deep-fried chicken, fish cake, grilled mackerel, and kimpira gobo, all wrapped in a bamboo sheath and tied with a strand of hemp. The bento was a delightful treat, and it became a memorable highlight of our challenging hike.
After three hours of walking, the railway track trail ended, and the path continued with steep stairs.
We climbed a steep trail with large stones and tree roots for about 30 minutes, navigating the rugged path through the dense forest. Finally, we reached the famous Wilson's Stump (ウィルソン株), a massive remnant of an ancient cedar tree that stood as a testament to the island's natural beauty and history.
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| Wilson Stump (ウィルソン株) |
Many hikers were taking photos from inside the stump. The stump is large enough for people to enter, and depending on the viewing angle from inside, it appears heart-shaped, making it a popular spot.
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| Wilsons Stump (ウィルソン株) |
After enjoying Wilson's Stump, we continued climbing up the steep trail to reach Jomon Sugi (縄文杉).
The wooden stairs were steep, but they weren't too difficult for us since we'd been training by climbing 2,000 stairs at Hillcrest Park in the U.S. every weekend. Our preparation paid off as we ascended with confidence.
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| Daio Sugi (大王杉) |
From here, you will often see Yaku Sugi, a huge tree that is over 1,000 years old. The sight of these ancient giants is absolutely breathtaking.
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| Daio Sugi (大王杉) |
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| Fufu Sugi (夫婦杉) |
About 30 minutes before arriving at Jomon Sugi, it started drizzling for around 15 minutes. We felt quite fortunate because Yakushima is well-known for its frequent rain. I had expected to use an umbrella for heavy rain, but wearing rain jackets for those 15 minutes mostly protected us, though we did get a bit wet.
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| Jomon Sugi (縄文杉) |
Our journey led us to the legendary Jomon Sugi (縄文杉), considered to be over 3,000 to 7,000 years old.
In order to protect Jomon Sugi, visitors have to view it from a wooden observation deck, which is a dozen meters away. They are not allowed to enter the area around Jomon Sugi. However, we were amazed at how enormous the Jomon Sugi was. The tree's vast size and venerable age filled us with wonder.
My husband observed that some people were bowing to Jomon Sugi and stating their wishes, like wishing for wealth.
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| Jomon Sugi (縄文杉) |
After walking for many hours, we felt really satisfied with our accomplishment of reaching Jomon Sugi. Then, we began our journey back down the trail.
On our way back to the trailhead, we were fortunate to encounter a troop of Yakushima Monkeys, also known as Yakuzaru (ヤクザル) or Yakushimazaru (ヤクシマザル).
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| Yakushima Monkey |
Although it was a long hike, spotting the adorable Yakushima Monkeys made it worthwhile.
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| Yakushima Monkeys |
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| Yakushima Monkey |
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| The Trailhead, Arakawa Tozanguchi (荒川登山口) |
We finally returned to the trailhead after a long 18-mile hike that took us 9 hours. According to my iPhone, I walked 35,000 steps. It was a challenging hike, but not overwhelmingly difficult, although I did have muscle soreness the next day. This was because my husband and I had been preparing for a long time, working out by running and stair climbing over the past few months. Upon reaching the trailhead, my feet were sore from the long hours on the railway tracks, but I felt a rewarding sense of accomplishment and it was invigorating.
Overall, it was a challenging hike, but I highly recommend it if you are on Yakushima Island and are healthy enough to complete it. Walking in the Yakushima forest is incredibly refreshing and beneficial for both physical and mental well-being. The Jomon Sugi is gigantic and worth seeing at least once in a lifetime. The entire experience is truly unforgettable. If you decide to take on this hike, be sure to wear sturdy hiking/trekking shoes and bring some food and plenty of water. Pack rain gear, as the weather can be unpredictable, and consider training with some runs and stair climbing beforehand. Most importantly, take your time to enjoy the breathtaking nature around you.
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