Thursday, February 27, 2025

Hiking into the Heart of Princess Mononoke: Exploring Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine

     As I mentioned in my previous entries, my husband and I traveled to Yakushima Island in October last year. One of the hiking trails we wanted to try was Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine (白谷雲水峡), which is famous for the Princess Mononoke Forest. Indeed, we watched the Studio Ghibli film "Princess Mononoke" before we flew to Yakushima Island. I was excited to try this hike. We couldn't wait to experience the magical atmosphere that inspired such an iconic movie. Today, I will share my experience of hiking the Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine via Taikoiwa Rock.



My Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine via Taikoiwa Rock Loop Summary  (UA MapMyWalk App)


My Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine via Taikoiwa Rock Loop Summary  (UA MapMyWalk App)


My Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine via Taikoiwa Rock Loop Summary (AllTrails App)


Tips to Hike Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine via Taikoiwa Rock Loop

1. It's a strenuous hike: Be prepared for a challenging journey.  

2. It's a long 5-mile hike: Ensure you're ready for the distance.  

3. It's a 5 to 6-hour hike on average: Allocate sufficient time for the hike.  

4. Use a GPS trail map to prevent getting lost: Sometimes it's difficult to find the right path on this trail. Indeed, two people got lost and called for help in 2021. There is almost no reception, so download a GPS map beforehand.  

5. The trail might be wet, muddy, and slippery: Wear proper hiking or trekking shoes and gear. Appropriate footwear is essential for comfort and safety. Wear gloves to protect your hands in case you fall.  

6. Prepare for rain: Bring a rain jacket, waterproof backpack cover, and a hand towel. It's a good idea to bring some Ziplock bags to keep your belongings dry. (We rented waterproof rain jackets for this hike from a local rental store in Anbo.)  

7. Bring lunch and snacks: There are no trash cans, so bring plastic bags to keep your trash in your hiking backpack.  

8. Bring bottles of water: If you're comfortable drinking natural mountain water, there are some spots along the trail where you can refill. (Personally, I didn't drink the natural water as I couldn't be sure it was 100% safe from H. pylori, so I brought plenty of water.)  

9. There are only two toilets: There is a flush toilet located between the trailhead and the parking lot. Along the trail, you'll also find an unflushable bio-toilet at Shiratanigoya (白谷小屋).

10. Be cautious when crossing streams: There are streams you need to cross along the trail. If it rains a lot, it’s safer to stop crossing streams as it becomes more dangerous due to the stronger flow and increased amount of water from the rain.


     When we arrived at the Shiratani Unsuikyo parking lot at 7:30 a.m., there were only a few cars parking there. While walking to the trailhead, we enjoyed the soothing sounds of the beautiful river and its cascading waterfalls, which set a relaxing vibe for the start of our hike.



     The trail was muddy, rocky, and sometimes narrow, so I found it more difficult than the Jomon-Sugi Cedar trail we had tried on the previous day

       We enjoyed walking with the view of vibrant moss-covered landscapes. The enchanting moss-covered landscape made every moment feel extraordinary.


     Because it was early in the morning, there were hardly any other hikers around at the beginning. The peaceful solitude allowed us to fully immerse ourselves in the beauty of the trail.



     You'll need to cross some streams during this hike. There were moss-covered rocks that we needed to step on to cross the streams. Although the rocks were wet and surprisingly not slippery, it's still essential to tread carefully to avoid any accidents.



     I was amazed by the beautiful moss-covered giant trees. We both agreed that it was truly worth visiting here. Hiking in this stunning forest is something everyone should experience at least once in their lifetime. We were deeply touched by the serene charm and breathtaking scenery.


      Kokemusumori (苔むす森) is well-known as the "Princess Mononoke Forest." Its lush, moss-covered trees and magical atmosphere make it a must-visit for film fans and nature enthusiasts.








       After hiking through Kokemusumori, we began the ascent to Taikoiwa. The trail was filled with exposed tree roots and uneven paths, making each step a challenging endeavor. Despite the obstacles, the sense of accomplishment made it worthwhile. 

       We found a sign that said, "No eating at Taikoiwa Rock." We had planned to have lunch at the top, but decided to have it later instead.



 Taikoiwa Rock (太鼓岩)

       When we arrived at Taikoiwa Rock, the sun was shining, and we had the place to ourselves. We soaked in the stunning views and enjoyed a refreshing mountain breeze. This rock is famous for its appearance in Princess Mononoke. In the film, Taikoiwa Rock is where Ashitaka stands and gazes over the mystical forest, which is inspired by the real-life Shiratani Unsuikyo Ravine.


     After climbing down from Taikoiwa Rock, we decided to have lunch near Shiratanigoya. There were some benches and a few people eating lunch as well. 


       We brought shogayaki bento and nori bento, which we had purchased at Kamogawa in the morning. Kamogawa bento store opens at 6:30 a.m., making it convenient to grab a delicious meal before hiking the trail.

Shogayaki Bento

      My husband enjoyed shogayaki bento. The bento box had two layers: the top layer contained ginger-fried pork, tamagoyaki, and shredded cabbage, while the bottom layer was filled with a large amount of rice. It was quite filling.

Nori Bento

      I enjoyed this nori bento.  It had deep-fried shrimp, chicken, and fish, along with fish cake and tamagoyaki over nori and rice. I generally love nori bento, but I fell in love with this one. The flavors were exceptional, and the shrimp was larger than it looked. 


       On our way back, we enjoyed more of the moss-covered landscape in Kokemusumori. We saw a tour guide pointing out the best spots for taking photos with Kodama figures from Princess Mononoke. (These guides often carry Kodama figures in their pockets to entertain visitors.)

    We enjoyed the beautiful scenery as we walked back, soaking in the serene charm of the forest one last time.



      On our way back, we passed through more groups of hikers. The trail, which required crossing streams, had become wetter and more slippery with the numerous footprints. It was easier in the morning, but more challenging on our return. Unfortunately, my husband slipped and injured his hand, reminding us that we should have worn gloves.



Overall

     We really enjoyed this hike. If you like hiking, it's definitely worth doing at least once in a lifetime. Walking in the Princess Mononoke Forest was magical, with lush, moss-covered trees and serene views. The challenging trails and breathtaking scenery made the journey unforgettable.



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Thursday, February 20, 2025

How to Cook Grilled Cheese Mayonnaise Shrimp for Your Osechi Meal

 

       As I mentioned in my previous entry, Traditional Japanese Foods I Ate During This New Year's Holidays, I prepared this grilled cheese mayonnaise shrimp dish as part of our osechi meal on New Year's Eve. It turned out really well. The first time I tried making grilled cheese mayonnaise shrimp for osechi was two years ago, and I absolutely loved it. So, I decided to make it again this New Year.

      I found this recipe in this YouTube video, and it immediately caught my attention. Today, I'm excited to show you how to make grilled cheese mayonnaise shrimp. It's a delightful dish that's both easy to prepare and absolutely delicious.



How to Cook 

Grilled Cheese Mayonnaise Shrimp


Ingredients

18 Large Shrimp

2 Tablespoons of Sake

Pinch of Salt and Black Pepper

6 Tablespoons of Mayonnaise

9 Tablespoons of Shredded Cheese

6 Tablespoons of Sliced Green Onions 

Grated Cheese 


1.  Peel the shrimp and remove their digestive tracts, which appear as a black line along the back. 

      Make a shallow cut along the stomach of each shrimp with a knife and open them up. Pour sake over the shrimp to remove any odor. Then, pat the shrimp dry with a paper towel. Place the shrimp on a toaster oven tray and sprinkle with salt and black pepper.




2. Mix the mayonnaise, shredded cheese, and sliced green onions in a bowl.


Spread the mixture over the shrimp. Sprinkle grated cheese on top. Wrap the tips of the shrimp tails with aluminum foil to prevent burning.



3. Preheat the toaster oven to 280℃ (536°F). Toast the shrimp for 4 minutes, or until the cheese starts to turn golden brown.



4. Enjoy!



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    ★You can find my recipe entries through my Pinterest

Thursday, February 13, 2025

Journey Through the Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail: A Hike to Remember

 

     Last year, my husband and I visited Yakushima Island, Japan. We chose to travel to this island because my American patient mentioned that he really enjoyed hiking there on his first trip to Japan and planned to try climbing Mt. Fuji next time. When he told me about Yakushima Island, I was very surprised because I used to think that it wasn’t a very popular travel destination in Japan, even though Yakushima is a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site and the inspiration for the Studio Ghibli film Princess Mononoke. Many international travelers love Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. Since my husband and I are avid hikers, I was very interested in hiking on Yakushima Island and learned that it was a very difficult hike, but we could enjoy trekking through ancient forests and vibrant moss-covered landscapes which we can’t experience in the arid regions of Southern California. Eventually, we decided to visit Yakushima Island for the first time. One of the hikes I wanted to try was the Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail. Yakushima Island is home to the Jomon Sugi, believed to be over 3,000 to 7,000 years old. There is no road access to Jomon Sugi; the only way to see it is to hike there. The round trip for the Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail usually takes 9 to 10 hours on foot. It is a strenuous hike, but I thought that it would be a great experience of a lifetime. Today, I'm going to share my experience hiking the Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail.       

My Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail Walking Summary (UA MapMyWalk App)



My Jomon-Sugi Cedar Trail Walking Summary (AllTrails App)


Tips for Walking to Jomon-Sugi from Arakawa Tozanguchi Trailhead  

1. It's a strenuous hike: Be prepared for a challenging journey.  

2. It's a long 18-mile hike: Ensure you're ready for the distance.  

3. It's a 9 to 10-hour hike on average: Allocate sufficient time for the hike.  

4. The trail might be wet and muddy: Wear appropriate footwear and gear.  

5. Prepare for rain: Bring a raincoat, umbrella, waterproof backpack cover, and a hand towel. It's a good idea to bring some Ziplock bags to keep your belongings dry. (We rented raincoats for this hike from a local rental store in Anbo.)  

6. Wear hiking or trekking shoes: Proper footwear is essential for comfort and safety.  

7. Bring lunch and snacks: There are no trash cans, so bring plastic bags to keep your trash in your hiking backpack.  

8. Bring bottles of water: If you're comfortable drinking natural mountain water, there are five spots along the trail where you can refill. (Personally, I didn't drink the natural water as I couldn't be sure it was 100% safe from H. pylori, so I brought plenty of water.)  

9. Bring a disposable camping toilet set: There is a flush toilet at Arakawa Tozanguchi. Along the trail, you'll also find unflushable bio-toilets and some toilet tents. If you plan to use the toilet tents, you’ll need a disposable camping toilet set (note that you cannot discard it along the trail). I purchased my disposable camping toilet set at Daiso before flying to Yakushima. While there are no Daiso stores in Yakushima, you can find these sets at supermarkets, though they tend to be more expensive.

10. It might snow in December through February: Be prepared for cold weather and potential snow. (We hiked in early October)


      We woke up early in the morning and drove a rental car to the Yakusugi Shizenkan (屋久杉自然館) bus stop. We arrived at 5 a.m. It was still dark, but many hikers were already waiting for the bus. Most of them were young people in their late teens to 30s, and about half of them appeared to be international travelers. We bought two round-trip bus tickets for 6000 yen and stood in line for the bus, which arrived at 5:30 a.m. Some hikers were eating bento or light snacks while they waited.         

      The huge bus navigated very narrow, curvy roads. I was impressed by how professional the bus driver was. It took us 30 minutes by bus to reach the trailhead, Arakawa Tozanguchi (荒川登山口). 

The Trailhead, Arakawa Tozanguchi (荒川登山口)

         At the trailhead, there was a public bathroom. After a quick stop, we started walking along the trail at 6:15 a.m. It was still dusky in the early morning, but the morning air was crisp and refreshing, perfect for the long hike ahead.


     Soon after we started walking, it began to get bright as the sun started to rise.



       The first 5 miles (8 km) of the trail followed a narrow railway track, just wide enough for one person, so hikers walked in single file.






    

      We crossed several bridges along the way, where many people stopped to take photos. The sound of the rushing river below was a soothing backdrop as we continued our hike.

     After walking for an hour, we arrived at the site of Kosugidani Village (小杉谷集落). I was surprised to learn that a small village and school stood here until 1970, and that 540 people used to live here. The village developed as a base for the development of national forests on Yakushima Island from the Taisho to Showa era.









We purchased Bamboo Sheath bento on the previous night.

     Before the railway track trail ended, we decided to have lunch. We brought a Bamboo Sheath bento, which we had purchased at Kamogawa the previous night. It included rice balls, Japanese omelette, deep-fried chicken, fish cake, grilled mackerel, and kimpira gobo, all wrapped in a bamboo sheath and tied with a strand of hemp. The bento was a delightful treat, and it became a memorable highlight of our challenging hike.



       After three hours of walking, the railway track trail ended, and the path continued with steep stairs.      


       We climbed a steep trail with large stones and tree roots for about 30 minutes, navigating the rugged path through the dense forest. Finally, we reached the famous Wilson's Stump (ウィルソン株), a massive remnant of an ancient cedar tree that stood as a testament to the island's natural beauty and history.

Wilson Stump (ウィルソン株)

      Many hikers were taking photos from inside the stump. The stump is large enough for people to enter, and depending on the viewing angle from inside, it appears heart-shaped, making it a popular spot.    

Wilsons Stump (ウィルソン株)



      After enjoying Wilson's Stump, we continued climbing up the steep trail to reach Jomon Sugi (縄文杉).

      The wooden stairs were steep, but they weren't too difficult for us since we'd been training by climbing 2,000 stairs at Hillcrest Park in the U.S. every weekend. Our preparation paid off as we ascended with confidence.

Daio Sugi (大王杉)

       From here, you will often see Yaku Sugi, a huge tree that is over 1,000 years old. The sight of these ancient giants is absolutely breathtaking.

Daio Sugi (大王杉)     

Fufu Sugi (夫婦杉)


       About 30 minutes before arriving at Jomon Sugi, it started drizzling for around 15 minutes. We felt quite fortunate because Yakushima is well-known for its frequent rain. I had expected to use an umbrella for heavy rain, but wearing rain jackets for those 15 minutes mostly protected us, though we did get a bit wet.


Jomon Sugi (縄文杉)
Jomon Sugi (縄文杉)

      Our journey led us to the legendary Jomon Sugi (縄文杉), considered to be over 3,000 to 7,000 years old.      

       In order to protect Jomon Sugi, visitors have to view it from a wooden observation deck, which is a dozen meters away. They are not allowed to enter the area around Jomon Sugi. However, we were amazed at how enormous the Jomon Sugi was. The tree's vast size and venerable age filled us with wonder.

       My husband observed that some people were bowing to Jomon Sugi and stating their wishes, like wishing for wealth. 

                 



Jomon Sugi (縄文杉)

         After walking for many hours, we felt really satisfied with our accomplishment of reaching Jomon Sugi. Then, we began our journey back down the trail.



       On our way back to the trailhead, we were fortunate to encounter a troop of Yakushima Monkeys, also known as Yakuzaru (ヤクザル) or Yakushimazaru (ヤクシマザル). 

Yakushima Monkey   

      Although it was a long hike, spotting the adorable Yakushima Monkeys made it worthwhile.

Yakushima Monkeys


Yakushima Monkey


The Trailhead, Arakawa Tozanguchi (荒川登山口)

       We finally returned to the trailhead after a long 18-mile hike that took us 9 hours. According to my iPhone, I walked 35,000 steps. It was a challenging hike, but not overwhelmingly difficult, although I did have muscle soreness the next day. This was because my husband and I had been preparing for a long time, working out by running and stair climbing over the past few months. Upon reaching the trailhead, my feet were sore from the long hours on the railway tracks, but I felt a rewarding sense of accomplishment and it was invigorating.



Overall 

        Overall, it was a challenging hike, but I highly recommend it if you are on Yakushima Island and are healthy enough to complete it. Walking in the Yakushima forest is incredibly refreshing and beneficial for both physical and mental well-being. The Jomon Sugi is gigantic and worth seeing at least once in a lifetime. The entire experience is truly unforgettable. If you decide to take on this hike, be sure to wear sturdy hiking/trekking shoes and bring some food and plenty of water. Pack rain gear, as the weather can be unpredictable, and consider training with some runs and stair climbing beforehand. Most importantly, take your time to enjoy the breathtaking nature around you.



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